No doubt you’ve seen some crazy looking pumpkins this fall at roadside stands and farmers markets. Warty, bumpy, lumpy with a range of colors that make the traditional Jack-o-lantern orange seem boring, you might be tempted to view them as creative additions to your fall motifs—before they wither and fade and head to the compost heap.
The reality is that a lot of these cultivar oddities with curious names like Cinderella, Fairy Tale, Jarrahdale, and Speckled Hound possess an amazing range of culinary uses. They offer fabulous flavor and marvelous texture, from coarse to silky, with vibrant colors that make custards, pies, and soups ‘pop.’ They are a snap to steam or roast, turn into a puree, freeze and stockpile for later use, even into the following spring or summer when pumpkin seems so out of place, but oh so wonderful.
One of the most common varieties you’re likely to find is the buff colored Long Island Cheese, a medium-sized pumpkin, lightly ribbed with a smooth buff colored skin. This classic American Heirloom dates back to the early 1800s and is named for where it was once grown in abundance and for its resemblance to wheels of cheese. Carve into one, and you’ll find a sweet, deep orange flesh that is prized for pumpkin pies, but can be used in any recipe calling for pumpkin.
Here’s how to turn your new discovery into a useful puree. Remember that the amount of puree any variety of pumpkin will yield will depend on its size. A general rule of thumb is that four pounds of pumpkin will yield about one pound (or 2 cups) of puree.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the pumpkin in half, stem to base. Remove seeds and pulp. Place on a heavy baking sheet and cover with foil. Bake for one hour or until very tender. (This time will vary depending on how thick the pumpkin is.) Scrape the pumpkin flesh from the shell halves. Working in batches, transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
Cooked pumpkin contains a lot of water, so to get the thickest puree and intensify the flavor, line a strainer with a layer of coffee filters, add the puree, and allow to drain for a couple of hours. Transfer the drained puree to quart sized freezer safe bags, which will hold about one pound (two cups) Label and store in the freezer for up to 12 months. When ready to use, thaw at room temperature and drain any excess water before proceeding with a recipe.
You’ll have to wait a day before biting into these amazingly tender rolls, but your patience will pay off.
Next-Day, No-Knead Squash Dinner Rolls
Makes 18 rolls
2 .25-ounce packages active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water (90°F to 110°F)
2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup squash or pumpkin puree, thawed if frozen
½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon fresh minced thyme
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra if needed
3 tablespoons melted butter, for greasing the bowl and pans
Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a large mixing bowl and stir to dissolve. Stir in the eggs, pumpkin puree, butter, sugar, thyme, salt, and cayenne. Using an electric mixer, stir in the flour and beat until smooth, adding up to an additional ½ cup flour to make a soft dough (the dough should be tacky but manageable).
Brush another large bowl with butter and turn the dough into it, turning to coat the dough with butter on all sides. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm spot for 1 ½ hours or until double in size. Punch the dough down, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease two 8-inch round cake pans with the remaining butter.
Punch the dough down again and divide into 18 pieces. Shape each piece into a ball and arrange in the pans, leaving some space between each. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm spot for 30 minutes or until double in size.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the rolls are browned. Serve hot or warm with soft butter.
Marilou Suszko is the author of Farms and Food of Ohio: From Garden Gate to Dinner Plate (Hippocrene Books); The Locavore’s Kitchen (Ohio University Press) and Cleveland’s West Side Market: 100 Years & Still Cooking, coauthored with Laura Taxel (University of Akron Press). She is a frequent guest speaker and culinary educator. She can be contacted at mariloususzko.com
Author: Marilou Suszko
Marilou Suszko is the author of Farms and Foods of Ohio: From Garden Gate to Dinner Place (Hippocrene Books, NY) and The Locavore’s Kitchen: A Cook’s Guide to Seasonal Eating and Preserving (Ohio Swallow Press, OH 2011). For more information including an appearance and program schedule, go to mariloususzko.com